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    Entries in Cuisine: French (14)

    Sunday
    31Jan2010

    Hats off to you, Mr. Robuchon

    It's not everyday every year that I'm treated to an extraordinarily fabulous gastronomic experience at one of the world's most celebrated restaurants.  The last time this occurred was when my mom bought me dinner at Bouley for my belated birthday...in September 2008.  Now, for those of you that follow my website regularly, you know that I tend to dine at relatively affordable restaurants, especially if I'm the one footing the bill.  

    Theresa, my dear friend from home who currently resides in Dallas, was recently in Manhattan for a couple of days on business.  Her job allows for her to come to the city a handful of times per year, thus acting as a great excuse for the two of us to get together.  On Thursday evening, I met Theresa after work at her posh home-away-from-home, The Four Seasons Hotel on 57th Street.  After catching up over a few over-priced cocktails, she suggested that we grab a bite, and, that "the food menu in the bar simply would not do."  Theresa flagged the maitre d' and inquired about a table for two at the infamous L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, which, was conveniently located within The Four Seasons.  "The only seating for two is available at the counter, which overlooks the open-kitchen," the maitre d' informed us.  Within minutes, the kind gentleman led us through the restaurant and beyond the hostess stand towards our front-row seats at the open-kitchen stage.  

    L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon has been on my dining-radar ever since the Parisian-based restaurant opened its doors in Manhattan just a couple of years ago.  And now, I feel so blessed to finally be able to cross this institution of haute cuisine off of my "must try before I die" list.  Believe me when I say that my experience was nothing short of perfection.  From the incredible service and knowledgeable staff, non-stuffy atmosphere, and plates of delicacies that tasted just as gorgeous as they appeared, L'Atelier positively took my breath away.  C'est magnifique!

    Theresa: thank you for treating me to the most fabulous dining expedition I've experienced in recent memory.  For me, it was truly a "Cinderella" moment.  

    Please enjoy the pictures of my meal, below. 

    View of the kitchen from my front-row counter seatPlace settingAmuse bouche: foie-gras mousse, port-wine gelee, parmesan foamScallop carpaccio with toasted poppy seedsFoie-gras ravioli in chicken broth, topped with shaved black trufflesLangoustine papillote with basil pestoAmuse bouche: smoked eel and foie-gras mousse trifleBraised veal cheeks with Thai jus and crunchy vegetablesAmuse bouche (dessert): tangerine curd, hazelnut brittle, hazelnut foamPassion fruit custard, 10 Cane Rum gratine, coconut foamHomemade caramel

    Tuesday
    20Oct2009

    Brunch at DBGB

    •  Cuisine: French, New American
    •  Scene: Casually sophisticated, children welcome, trendy
    •  Occasion: Serves brunch, good for groups
    • Must try: Seasonal blintzes, croque monsieur/madame
    • Price: Most brunch items under $20
    • Reservations: Via phone or www.opentable.com
    • Phone: (212) 933-5300
    • Website: www.danielnyc.com
    • Location: 299 Bowery, (at 1st Street) 
    What the heck does DBGB stand for anyways??
    Daniel Boulud Good Burger.  This is uber-famous chef Daniel Boulud's take on "French brasserie meets the American tavern," or in other words, "Boulud for the masses" (hence the "affordable" prices).

    What’s the space like?
    Dark, modern, smart casual, booth and table seating, bustling yet conducive to conversation

    How was the service?
    Fantastic.  Our server was knowledgeable, patient and friendly.

    What did you drink?
    I kept it boring; just knocked back a couple of waters-on-the-rocks. 
    How was the food? 
    • Viennoiserie (for the table): Within our group of six, I think it would be safe to say that five of us were brutally hung-over from the night before.  In order to begin the healing process, we unanimously agreed to kick off brunch with a basket of viennoiserie (the fancy-pants word for “pastry”).  Fortunate enough to recognize the smell of homemade croissants fresh-out-of-the-oven, you can imagine my excitement when our server presented us with a bountiful basket filled with warm pastries: pain aux raisins (croissant with raisins), a croissant, pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant) and a banana muffinA trio of spreads followed as an accompaniment: circular slab of butter topped with sprinkled sel gris (grey sea salt), orange marmalade (sans peels) and four-fruits preserves.     


    • Cheese blintzes with roasted pears and cassis syrup (for the table): “Are any of you guys getting an appetizer?  Those blintzes sound amazing, but I also want a Croque Monsieur!” Ceci proclaimed.  A number of us jumped in and replied, “Ceci, it’s your birthday!  Order whatever the hell you want!”  And that, she did.  Thinly-sliced pears (I hate to say it, but I believe they were canned) served as an anchor for two cheese blintzes (thin crepes filled with a blend of soft, unsweetened farmer’s cheese), which were topped with a spoonful of Bordeaux-colored cassis (blackberry) syrup.  The sliced pears added a playful, unexpected textural “crunch” to an otherwise delicate and creamy dish.   
    • Croque Madame:  Imagine this take on a grilled ham & Swiss cheese sandwich: salty French ham and gruyere cheese sandwiched between two thick and buttery slices of white bread - topped with a thin layer of béchamel sauce and more gruyere cheese - then cooked to a bubbling golden brown (under the boiler) and crowned with a sunny side-up egg.  The only way to eat this 'wich is with a fork and knife as you allow the egg's liquid yolk to work its magic by seeping in to every last crevice of the bread. Is your mouth watering yet?  From the first time that I tasted this delightful sandwich in France, I was hooked.  I’ve been known to judge a restaurant based upon its Croque Madame, alone.  Although I was bummed that DBGB’s version was accompanied by a plain-Jane mescalin salad, not frites, I had to give Mr. Boulud a star for authenticity (for in my experience, croques are almost always paired aux salade).     



    What’s pricing like?
    Here’s a snapshot of our bill:
    • Viennoiserie: $12 (note that this was split 6 ways)
    • Cheese blintzes: $10
    • Croque Madame: $15
    Will you return to DBGB?
    Absolutely!  Though the reviews are mixed, I hope to return to DBGB for dinner. 
    Tuesday
    01Sep2009

    Brunch at L'Ecole


    • Cuisine: French
    • Scene: Casual-sophistication
    • Occasion: Prix-fixe, good for groups, brunch
    • Must try: Sweet and savory bread basket (brunch), French toast
    • Price: Brunch: $19.50 prix-fixe (2 courses)
    • Reservations: Via phone or opentable.com
    • Phone: (212) 219-3300
    • Website: www.frenchculinary.com/lecole.htm  
    • Location: 462 Broadway, (at Grand St.)
    *Note* L’Ecole, the restaurant within The French Culinary Institute, is unique in the fact that meals (aside from brunch) are prepared by FCI students.  L’Ecole’s purpose is to serve as a “working lab” for future chefs.  This is where Bobby Flay, David Chang and Dan Barber got their start!

    What’s the space like?
    Honestly?  The space kind of reminded me of those make-shift breakfast areas in newly-built/remodeled Hampton Inn’s/Doubletree’s/Hyatt’s (hotels).  You know what I’m talking about: Blond wood furniture, glass blocks, tall ceilings, wooden chairs accented with upholstery, etc.  While this may sound unattractive to some, the atmosphere was quite nostalgic for me.  During my junior and senior years of college, I, too, gained some priceless experience and knowledge at my school's student-run restaurant.  

    How was the service?
    Our server was notably friendly and extremely knowledgeable about the menu.  Phil and I were treated famously!

    Did you drink?
    I had a fabulous latte, served with homemade chocolate-pistachio biscotti, that tasted almost as perfect as the one I savored in San Remo, Italy. 
    *Note* L’Ecole offers guests both flat and sparkling water free of charge!

    How was the food?
    Aside from being delicious, my meal was tastefully affordable!  You can't beat a $19.50 prix-fixe special that includes coffee, a basket of freshly-baked bread and pastries, an appetizer and an entree! 
    • Basket of freshly-baked bread and pastries: This arrangement of carb-rich goodness could very well be the city's best kept *free* secret!  Baked fresh daily by the FCI's bread and pastry-focused students, this bountiful assortment included: An obese citrus scone, hearty walnut bread, pecan coffee cake, and a super moist sweet bread dotted with golden raisins and dried cherries. 
    • Hamachi Tartare: What looked like the body of a snake made out of toothpaste was actually parsnip puree acting as an anchor on a long rectangular plate (not much bigger than an olive tray).  Shaved cucumber slices, crunchy puffed rice "kernels," and cubes of fresh raw hamachi (Japanese amberjack fish) sat atop the velvety, buttery puree.  A heavy drizzle of Meyer-lemon vinaigrette finished the dish.  The differing flavors and textures of the tartare were pleasantly overwhelming, though I found the hamachi, otherwise typically mild/delicate in taste, to be slightly "fishy."
    • French toast: Two slices of challah bread French toast, each no more than 1/2-3/4' thick, were imperfectly placed atop one another.  Plump blueberries were strewn across the plate, whereas overly-ripened banana slices sat neatly like a line of fallen dominoes.  I poured every last drop of the warm maple syrup over the toast, allowing rich sweetness to suffocate every crevice of the porous bread.  After waiting a minute or two, I took my first bite.  With the exception of the bananas, L'Ecole's version of this traditional breakfast entree was splendid.  I appreciate a restaurant that doesn't serve Americanized "lumber jack" portions, because as far as not overeating, we could learn a thing or two from the French!
    What’s pricing like?
    $19.50 prix-fixe brunch special that includes coffee, a basket of freshly-baked bread and pastries, an appetizer and an entree! 

    Will you return to L'Ecole?
    Absolutely!  I look forward to sampling L'Ecole's lunch and dinner menus. 
    Monday
    27Jul2009

    Brunch at Bar Artisanal, 7/25/09









     

    •  Cuisine: French bistro, small plates
    •  Scene: Casual and sophisticated atmosphere, large space
    •  Occasion: Dramatic interior, drinks and light bites (pre-party), cheese specialist, brunch
    •  Must try (brunch): Gougeres, Grilled Cheese Bites, Almond Croissant (pain perdu), Pork Belly Hash
    •  Brunch menu pricing: Amuse Bouche, all under $10; Entrees, all under $16
    •  Reservations: Via phone
    •  Phone: (212) 925-1600
    •  Website: www.barartisanal.com
    •  Location: 268 W. Broadway (At 6th Ave)

     

    I must be coming down with another case of French “fever.” This could explain my recent cravings for charcuterie, cheese, bread and wine. Every three-four months, France successfully seduces me in to making a return visit; however, with our crappy economy, my lack of travel funds and zero remaining “Personal Time Off” days (at work), the closest I’ll get to Paris is by way of a croque madame sandwich and a glass of Pinot Noir. Luckily, NYC has plenty of French bistros and brasseries for me to escape to when I need to a good ol’ fashioned emotional eating pity party.

    And while we’re on the topic of French bistros, check out my brunch review from the gorgeous, brand-new Bar Artisanal:

    What’s the space like?

    Think: Dramatic floor to ceiling paned-windows, black and white checkered tile floors, grand chandeliers, suede olive green banquets, oversized flower arrangements, a cheese/charcuterie station, and a large bar. Even beyond NYC standards, Bar Artisanal is very spacious and open; I can’t imagine ever feeling overwhelmed or claustrophobic. To top it all off, charming French music plays subtly in the background, transporting diners across the Atlantic.

    How was the service?

    Friendly, knowledgeable and perfectly paced.

    Did you drink?

    I began brunch with a Kir (Sancerre/white wine topped with a splash of Crème de Cassis), but chose to sip ice water for the remainder of the meal.

    How was the food?

    Overall, brunch was delicious! In order to taste as much as we could, Shirley and I ordered a variety of items and split everything in half. We clearly overestimated our hunger, but the menu had too many items that we simply could not resist!

    • Gougeres: Golf-ball-sized morsels that taste like a cross between a popover and a gruyere cheese soufflé. Melt-in-your-mouth perfection!
    • Cheese Tempura: A glass vase came filled with sea salt and pink peppercorns that anchored a bouquet of slender bamboo sticks; each one spearing a tempura-battered Comte cheese ball. Deep-fried cheese sounds divine, but I actually found these quite bland. Accompanied by an interesting dipping sauce or made with a sharper fromage, I think the Cheese Teumpura could be a huge hit.
    • Grilled Cheese Bites: 1-2 grilled cheese sandwiches were cut in to bite-sized pieces and served in a French onion soup bowl/crock. Each bite consisted of crunchy, buttery griddled bread enveloping a mound of warm, stringy gruyere (I think?) cheese. Truly decadent and divine.
    • Watermelon Salade: Strategically placed around a heap of lightly dressed greens were cubes of watermelon that had been tossed with olive tapenade and crumbled goat’s milk feta. The rebellious combination of flavors was truly explosive: Sweet and crunchy watermelon + creamy and pungent cheese + salty black olives. Had there had been more feta, this salad would have been perfect.
    • Beignets: These looked more like large cinnamon-sugar dusted donut holes than good ol’ fashioned Southern beignets! Generally, I’m not one to complain about anything fried, but I must say that these treats would have fared better with some sort of dipping sauce as an accompaniment (crème anglais, fruit puree, caramel, and chocolate).
    • Almond Croissant: Dry, boring croissant? No ma’am! More like pain perdu (French toast) stuffed with sweet ricotta cheese! Think: Almond croissant cut in half, lightly soaked in milk/cinnamon/sugar/egg batter, griddled, then stuffed with sweet ricotta and plated with berries and peach chutney.
    • Pork Belly Hash: Non-gristly pieces of meaty pork belly (literally sans fat) and cubed sweet potato came piping hot and topped with two perfectly poached eggs. The plate was finished with a drizzle of smoked chili hollandaise sauce.
    • Egg Frites: What could be better than a plate of homemade frites and two sunny-side-up eggs? Not too much; unless the eggs came on-top of the frites! Either way, these two ingredients go together like peas and carrots.
    • Chocolate Mousse: I wasn’t much of a “chocolate dessert fan” until I tasted this guilt-ridden concoction: Milk-chocolate mousse topped with a layer of hazelnut crunch (like a brittle), coffee granite and chocolate foam.

    What’s pricing like?

    Reasonable, especially when considering the high-quality ingredients:

    • Gougeres: $8
    • Cheese Tempura: $6
    • Grilled Cheese Bites: $6
    • Watermelon Salade: $10
    • Beignets: $8
    • Almond Croissant: $12
    • Pork Belly Hash: $16
    • Egg Frites: $10

    Will you return to Bar Artisanal?

     Most definitely! Between the restaurant’s space, concept, affordable pricing, and delicious food, I can’t wait to return to Bar Artisanal.

     

    xo,
    TLB

    Monday
    13Jul2009

    Dinner at Artisanal, 7/10/09

     

    • Cuisine: French/Bistro
    • Scene: Smart casual, bustling yet conducive to conversation, spacious
    • Occasion: Great for groups, first date, prix-fixe menu, small plates, notable wine list
    • Must try: Gougeres, fondues, cheese plates
    • Prices for my meal: Appetizer: Gougeres, $9.50; Entree: Spring Vegetable Risotto, $19.50
    • Reservations: Via phone or opentable.com
    • Phone: (212) 725-8585
    • Website: artisanalbistro.com/index.php
    • Location: 2 Park Avenue, (at 32nd Street)

     

    The last time I had dinner at Artisanal was a little over 2 years ago, when my mother (visiting from out of town) met my (now ex) boyfriend for the first time. While the meal was lovely, I’ve since avoided Artisanal like the plague after our bitter breakup (almost 2 years ago!). Me, hold a grudge? Never!

    Artisanal is famous for its namesake hand-picked cheeses procured from all over the world. In addition to the dining room, the restaurant also houses an on-site cheese cave and a retail counter. And that brings me to my most recent visit: After having learned of Artisanal’s “summer picnic baskets,” I anxiously invited my friend Cathryn to help me stock up on some decadent French delicacies. We instantly fell in love with the knowledgeable fromagere and swapped stories about our mutual obsession with France. “Are you girls hungry?” She said in her thick French accent. Cathryn and I looked at each other and smiled. “Well if you’re joining us for dinner tonight, I can plate and serve some of your (basket) purchased items to nibble on.”

    It didn’t take Madame Fromage much to convince us! Cathryn and I approached the hostess for a two-top and were seated for dinner immediately. Within minutes, a tall basket arrived filled with fresh, moist white and wheat bread that was paired with the most perfect schmear of spreadable butter. Like magic, our glasses of wine came simultaneously along with a white paper cone overflowing with gougeres (a donut-hole sized cheese soufflé that mated with a fluffy popover). As I placed the golden morsel in my mouth, I couldn't help but close my eyes in shear bliss as its warm, creamy core melted on to my tongue. Heaven.

    I took my last sip of wine just as the server and fromagere arrived baring  our beautifully arranged appetizer: ¼ of the contents of our basket plus ½ of a loaf of sliced baguette. “When plating the cheese, always start arranging from the 6 o’clock point. Start with the mildest, moving counter-clockwise, and end with the strongest. Make sure to combine the pate de campagne with the cornichon and moutarde,” instructed Madame Fromage. After placing our entrée orders with the server, Cathryn and I dove in to our “basket tasting,” which included:

    • Camembert (a creamy cheese with notes of mushroom/earth)
    • Selles-sur-Cher (a soft, pungent goat cheese encased with vegetable ash)
    • Ossau-Iraty (my personal favorite; a sweet and buttery cheese with a texture similar to cheddar)
    • Fourme d'Ambert (a soft and creamy blue, much less saltier than Stilton)
    • Fig confiture (jam)
    • Saucisson sec (the most delicious, mildly spicy and garlicky hard sausage)
    • Pate de campagne (a dense and meaty country pate; note that I'm still trying to develop a taste/appreciation for this)
    • Jar of cornichons (whole baby-pickles, about the size of your pinkie finger)
    • Dijon mustard/moutarde (spicy and intense, this paired beautifully with the pate and cornichons)

    Just when I thought that I *may* have to remove my belt for the duration of the meal (my tight pants were causing me to lose circulation from over-indulging), my Spring Vegetable Risotto entree arrived. Boiled in a mushroom and vegetable stock, the perfectly-cooked arborio rice took on a subtle brown color, contrasting gently against its stark white bowl. Blended with fresh green peas, bite-sized pieces of asparagus, waxy fava beans and fragrant wild mushrooms, the creamy risotto made for the perfect light summer entree (Note to self: Don't eat like a lumberjack prior to the main course.).

    Truly reminiscent of an authentic French brasserie (20+ foot tall ceilings, giant beveled mirrors, whimsically colored tile floors and crisp white table cloths), Artisanal is a special destination for all occasions. Cathryn and I were so pleased with our basket/cheese counter experience, the service we received, and our excellent meal. The entire experience transported us back to our week-long Parisian adventure that we took together in March.

    Sunday
    12Jul2009

    Review: My Artisanal picnic basket


    A couple of weeks ago, I posted a blurb entitled, "A summer picnic courtesy of Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro." Normally, I try not to publish anything without having experienced/tasted it for myself, as I find this to be deceptive and misleading to you, my dear readers. However, in this particular instance, I couldn't hold myself back! Sharing this exciting news from Artisanal, the cheese capital of NYC, was crucial and much too exciting to make you wait another second!

    Despite my busy schedule and nearly-empty wallet, I dragged a friend with me to Artisanal's cheese counter. Who better than Cathryn, the girl who accompanied me to Paris in March, to help put a French-themed picnic basket together?

    For $75, we chose the following:

    • Camembert (a creamy cheese with notes of mushroom/earth)
    • Selles-sur-Cher (a soft, pungent goat cheese encased with vegetable ash)
    • Ossau-Iraty (my personal favorite; a sweet and buttery cheese with a texture similar to cheddar)
    • Fourme d'Ambert (a soft and creamy blue, much less saltier than Stilton)
    • Fig confiture (jam)
    • Saucisson sec (the most delicious, mildly spicy and garlicky hard sausage)
    • Pate de campagne (a dense and meaty country pate; note that I'm still trying to develop a taste/appreciation for this)
    • Jar of cornichons (whole baby-pickles, about the size of your pinkie finger)
    • Dijon mustard/moutarde (spicy and intense, this paired beautifully with the pate and cornichons)
    • Baguette ("What, no crackers?" I asked the adorable French fromagere behind the counter. "Absolutely not," she said. "French people do not eat their cheese with crackers. The only way to pair these ingredients is with a baguette.")

    Cathryn and I were so impressed by the ample contents of our bright red picnic basket, that we decided to grab dinner at Artisanal. The restaurant graciously offered to plate a portion of our basket's contents to nibble on while we sipped on wine and perused the menu.

    Click *here* to read my Artisanal dinner review!