• Cuisine: Italian
•  Occasion: small/large groups, casual sophistication, hotel dining
  
•  Price: all brunch items under $14 
•  Reservations: via phone or www.opentable.com 
•  Phone: (212) 777-2410
• Website: www.maialinonyc.com
• Location: The Gramercy Park Hotel, 2 Lexington Avenue (at 21st Street)

Aside from spending a couple of late nights at The Rose Bar, I technically have not been to The Gramercy Park Hotel since the fall of 2007...until now. 

The space that Maialino currently occupies used to house the very short-lived "fine-dining" Chinese restaurant, Wakiya.  Though the food (at Wakiya) fell below my mediocre expectations, I found Wakiya's grand interior decor remnant of the fancy Chinese restaurants I had seen on television: ornate black lacquer furniture, dim lighting, and color splashes of gold and red.  After its demise, rumors began to swirl that his majesty, Gramercy Park's own Danny Meyer, was in talks to open a Roman-style trattoria in Wakiya's former space.  And after seven months of gestation, Maialino was born on November 11, 2009. 

When I arrived at Maialino ten-minutes early for our 12:30pm reservation, I was positively flabbergasted by the space's radical transformation from an upscale Chinese restaurant to a rustic-looking Roman trattoria.  Reclaimed oak wainscoting (from a poet's barn in NJ), wooden beams, warmly-painted tiles and exposed windows replaced Wakiya's dim overhead lighting, shiny black lacquer furniture, and plush red carpeting. 

Before (Wakiya: photo taken from "Time Out NY")

After (Maialino)

After the four of us were seated (close to 1pm) at a cozy booth, we immediately ordered a round of coffees to sip as we perused Maialino's brunch offerings.  In an effort to sooth my sweet tooth, I chose the Ricotta Pancakes for my entree.  Shortly after we placed our food order, the restaurant's manager approached our table and informed us that "the kitchen is slightly backed up, so because you will have to wait a bit longer than normal, I'd like to send you some pastries, on the house."  The four of us looked at each other and smiled before warmly accepting the manager's kind offer.  *Bonus points to Maialino for excellent communication skills and generosity.*

Within minutes, a basket filled with homemade olive-oil muffins arrived at our table.  The buttery exterior, slightly crunchy on top, gave way to a moist, dense cake with an ever-so-slight essence of olive oil. 

Maialino's olive-oil muffin

Roughly thirty-minutes after receiving our basket of gratis muffins, our entrees arrived.  Three 4'x4' fluffy pancakes were unevenly stacked on top of one another and finished with a generous dollop of lukewarm ricotta cheese.  After moving 3/4 of the ricotta away with my fork and dousing the 'cakes with syrup, I took my first bite.  Compared to generic flap-jacks, I found this version (made with ricotta) to be much creamier, richer and porous (which is great for syrup-fiends like me!). 

Maialino's Ricotta Pancakes...post syrup-drench and first bite

Though brunch lasted longer than I had expected (and budgeted time in my busy day for), I was pleased with my meal and the customer service we received.  While I won't be rushing back for brunch, I am hoping to return to Maialino for dinner in the very near future. 

Click *here* to see the rest of the pictures from this meal!

• Cuisine: Italian, small plates/tapas, wine bar
• Scene: casual sophistication, bustling atmosphere, dim lighting, tight quarters, salumi counter/retail shares space with the dining room
• Occasion: small groups, 1x1/date, light bites, pre-show
• Must try: lasagna, torta di porri (leek tart)
• Price: all plates, with the exception of specials, under $10
• Reservations: via phone or opentable.com
• Phone: (212) 877-4800
• Website: www.salumeriarosi.com
• Location: 283 Amsterdam Avenue (btw 73^rd and 74^th Streets)

How was the service?

Patient, knowledgeable and attentive – the staff seemed to know their product (both food and wine) and exactly what to pair it with for optimal flavor

What did you drink?

I began my meal with a dry, lightly-sweetened orange bitters spritzer, followed by glasses of both white and red wines (dependent upon which grape would compliment each dish).

How was the food?

Salumeria Rosi’s menu is designed for sharing.  Dishes are small, yet portions are ample enough to satisfy even the most insatiable appetite.  In terms of diet/watching your waistline, patrons can be as naughty or as nice as they so choose; i.e. menu items range from healthy to hearty.

If la joie de vivre was a brand, then Salumeria Rosi's famous chef, Cesare Casella, would be its spokesperson.  And upon our visit, Alex and I were lucky enough to be graced by his magnetic presence.   

Tucked in to the left breast pocket of his chef coat was Cesare's signature accessory: a bushel of rosemary sprigs.  I later observed snippets of the fragrant herb peaking out of the napkins at each place setting. Cute.

• Parmigiano-reggiano: Within moments of being seated, Alex and I were presented with a basket of warm, freshly-baked sliced bread followed by our first dish: nuggets of dense, creamy Parmigiano-reggiano cheese paired with a shallow reflecting pool of aged sweet balsamic vinegar.             
• Prosciutto Di Parma: Simultaneously, another basket of fresh bread arrived (Alex and I polished off the first within a matter of minutes!) alongside a plate piled high with thinly-sliced ribbons of Prosciutto Di Parma.  Alex and I made pseudo sandwiches using the salty ham and parmigiano-reggiano cheese, finished with a quick dip in to the balsamic vinegar.  Molto bene!          
• Caponata:  Although Otto still makes my favorite version of caponata, Salumeria Rosi’s rendition wasn’t too shabby.  Imagine a relish, of sorts, made from the following sautéed ingredients: chopped eggplant, celery, garlic, red bell pepper, salt, capers, sugar, tomatoes, vinegar and olive oil (plus or minus a couple more veggies).  *Just like a fine wine, caponata gets better with age.  The relish reaches its flavor peak after having marinated for a minimum of five hours. 
• Sette Fagioli: Translated from Italian, “sette fagioli” means “seven beans.”  Sans greens, this tasty heirloom salad came tossed in a sweet/sour vinegar and oil dressing and was garnished with finely chopped Italian parsley.  This was one of our favorite dishes.
• Insalate Pontormo: Of all the dishes we tried, I found this to be the most unique, as it was literally a warm salad composed of: scrambled eggs, pancetta and market greens (a.k.a. a fancier term for “lettuce leaves”).  I found the combination of the warm protein and wilted greens to be off-putting.
• House-made sausage with lentils (one of the evening’s specials): Not being a big fan of lentils, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect from this dish, though in all honesty, someone could serve a scoop of ice cream aside house-made sausage, and I’d probably still eat it.  To my pleasant surprise, the starchy lentils served as an interesting textural component to the rich and juicy sausage (which, by the way, was out-of-this-world delicious and chock full of spice, subtle heat and love).
• Torta Di Porri: Being a sucker for savory tarts, I could literally hear the Torta Di Porri singing to me like a catchy Miley Cyrus tune (I kid).  And what isn’t sexy about the marriage of leeks, pancetta and Parmigiano cheese all baked in to a rich, buttery crust? 
• Mezzi Rigatoni All'amatriciana: Minus the sauce's rich bacon-y flavor (derived from the pancetta), this pasta dish was damn near perfect: the rigatoni noodles were cooked “al dente,” and the robust tomato gravy was bursting with savory aromatics (garlic, Parmigiano).
• Lasagna: Our portion was cut in to a perfect square, divulging layer upon layer of ricotta cheese and pillow-y handmade strips of pasta dough.  The tomato-based ragu was delicately dotted with ground pork and beef.  A kiss of béchamel gave the sauce a pinkish “alla vodka” color.  Like a decadently rich soufflé, each bite melted in my mouth.

Will you return to Salumeria Rosi?
Absolutely, without a doubt.  Between the retail counter and onsite dining, Salumeria Rosi truly offers the best of both worlds.  With spring/summer 2010 already on my mind, I can't help fantasizing about filling a basket with of some of my favorite Salumeria Rosi products and hosting a picnic for friends in nearby Central Park.

• Cuisine: Italian
• Scene: white-table-cloth casual, full bar, people-watching, pretentious, Euro-trendy
• Occasion: 1x1/romantic date, small groups, pre-party grub, dance while you dine
• Must try: Pappardelle alla Bolognese ($18)
• Price: all pastas under $22
• Phone: (212) 431-0080
• Website:  www.viadeimilleny.com
• Reservations: via phone or www.opentable.com
• Location: 357 W. Broadway (btw Grand & Broome Streets)

What’s the space like?

Located on the ground floor of a non-descript brownstone in Soho (that closer resembles a building façade on Boston’s famous Newbury Street); VdM’s exterior exudes a modest presence.  A simple awning denoting the restaurant’s name is the only visible signage.  Once inside, however, VdM’s flamboyant personality is positively intoxicating.  Think: spacious “r” shaped dining room complete with a full bar; rustic hardwood flooring throughout; stark white tablecloths and globe-shaped vases filled with freshly-cut red roses; romantic/sexy dim lighting courtesy of tea candles and a myriad of crystal chandeliers; walls adorned with risqué local pop-art (think portraits of screen vixen, Megan Fox) that lead to 20-feet-tall painted-ceilings; and (screeeeeeeeeeeeech!!) a small DJ booth complete with an MC spinning the latest chart-topping tunes.

 

How was the service?

All of the servers were tall-dark-and-handsome young men with the most captivating, amped-up Italian accents.  Where they just actors?  Maybe, but they had me fooled.  Our waiter was very attentive (no drink was ever empty) and got every aspect of our order correct. 

What were you sipping?

I alternated between flutes of prosecco and traditional Bellini’s.

How was the food?  
Formaggi platter (grana padano, Gorgonzola): Dara and I decided to split a platter of cheeses to whet our appetites.  She chose the more dense grana padano, while I selected the robust and creamy Gorgonzola.  The platter was nothing special in terms of the cheeses or the buttery toast points, but what I simply could not get enough of was the accompanying tomato marmalade.  Both sweet and savory with a soft jelly-like texture and robust tomato-ey flavor, when paired with cheese, the marmalade’s sweetness cut straight through the pungency.  What a spectacular twist on your everyday fruit jam!  I wonder if VdM sells this stuff by the jar.  Hmmmm.   

Grilled sausage with broccoli rabe: To further whet our appetites, Dara and I each ordered our very own antipasti.  After reading the description, I couldn’t resist the visual I had conjured up in my head of “grilled Italian sausage and broccoli rabe.”  And what I was served was just as delicious as I what I had hoped for.  Perched atop a grilled and halved link of Italian sausage was a tangled mound of sautéed wilted greens liberally dotted with slices of roasted garlic.   

Pappardelle alla Bolognese: Handmade pappardelle pasta ribbons came pre-tossed (not slopped with a ladle of sauce) with one of the best Bolognese sauces I’ve tasted of late.  I’d stake my life on the assumption that the robust tomato gravy had been simmering all day in anticipation of the evening’s dinner service.  Perfectly spiced notes of garlic, salt, fresh pepper and Parmigiano reggiano infused the ground veal with just enough flavor as to not overpower the delicate meat.  I would return to VdM solely for this entree.  Truly a noteworthy, excellent preparation of my favorite pasta dish.    

 

Desserts: panna cotta and a chocolate cake: Both of these sweet treats were fine/passable, but neither shined in any way shape or form.  I was taken aback by the two scoops of overly-pungent mint chocolate chip gelato that accompanied the chocolate cake.  The chewing-gum flavor completely dumbed down any noticeable trace of chocolate.  Had the gelato been a more subtle vanilla or hazelnut, this classic dessert would have been quite delicious.  While there was nothing wrong with the panna cotta, there wasn’t much pizazz to it, either.  Its gelatinous, vanilla pudding-like consistency and lackluster flavor reminded me of lunches I shared with my great grandmother at her nursing home.            

Will you return to Via Dei Mille?
If I’m in the neighborhood, I would definitely return to VdM, especially for their knockout Pappardelle alla Bolognese.  Additionally, I love the charming interior space and haute geographical location.  However, there are a couple of reasons why I would not put VdM on my personal list of destination-worthy restaurants:

• I’m not a fan of having a DJ spin while I dine
• While adorable and charming, the staff is a bit too pretentious/aloof for my taste…and so is the crowd

xx,
TLB

P.S. For menus and addresses: http://www.menupages.com/

P.S.S. Mass transit directions: http://www.hopstop.com/?city=newyork

•  Cuisine: Italian
•  Scene: smart casual, bustling, children welcome, bi-level with various dining rooms
•  Occasion: great for groups, notable wine list, neighborhood jewel
•  Must try: Pizza; Figs with Ricotta Salata
•  Price: All pizzas under $16; Figs with Ricotta Salata, $7
•  Reservations: Via phone or www.opentable.com
•  Phone: (914) 939-3111
• Website:  www.tarrylodge.com
•  Location: 18 Mill Street – Port Chester, NY 10573

What’s the space like?

Housed within a bi-level 100-year-old building in upstate New York, the Tarry Lodge’s interior space perfectly captures the charm of a bygone era: white crown and base moldings hugging terracotta-colored walls, glossy black staircase banisters, marble bar tops, exposed cupboards stocked with glasses and wine bottles, etc.   Various dining rooms/nooks occupy each floor, allowing parties of all sizes to intimately enjoy their experience.   

How was the service?

Slow and not uniform; friendly yet aloof   

What did you drink?

I enjoyed a “Tarry Temple,” which is one of the restaurant’s homemade virgin cocktails. This was basically a play on the popular “Shirley Temple,” made with Sprite and Rose’s Grenadine; only at Tarry Lodge, the grenadine is made in-house. 

How was the food?

Ever since my friend Allie began culinary school this fall, we rarely get to see one another.  Between class and her daily commute from Connecticut, the days of making last-minute dinner plans are long gone.  “Any interest in joining me at Mario Batali’s Tarry Lodge?  It’s on the NY/CT border.  I was thinking we could go this Saturday…I can pick you up from the train.  Come on, it’ll be an adventure!” Allie convincingly wrote in an email.  And being the sucker that I am for exploring new geography and dining destinations, I agreed.  I should also mention my naivety in relation to distance and travel-time…Port Chester is nearly an hour away from NYC’s Grand Central Station!  Read more to find out if my travels were worth the trip…   

• Figs with Ricotta Salata: Allie and I decided to split this verdura (salad) as an appetizer.  A deep soup bowl arrived filled with quartered fresh figs, bite-sized cubes of ricotta salata (similar in taste to mozzarella, only firmer and saltier) and chopped haricot verts (green beans).  The ingredients were seasoned with freshly ground black pepper and lightly tossed in a dressing that resembled a poppy-seed or honey-mustard variety, only without the accompanying spice dominance (mustard tends to overpower).  The sweet, sun-ripened figs and salty ricotta salata created a thunder storm of contrasting, yet complimentary, flavors.  Prior to taking my first bite, I wasn’t sure what kind of role the green beans would play in the salad.  Afterward, it hit me: texturally, they gave each mouthful a much-needed crunch.

• Pizza with meatballs and jalapenos: A manager approached our table as Allie and I were scheming about what to order.  I presented a question: “Batali is known for both his pizza and his pasta, so which of these truly shines on the menu?  I’m stumped.  If you think the pizza is better than Otto’s, that may sway my decision.”  She looked at me with “Are you insane?” raised-eyebrows and boasted that Tarry Lodge had not only stolen Babbo’s pasta chef, but that their homemade pizza was much better than Otto’s pre-made version.  Sold!  Allie and I each ordered pies as entrees.  While she opted for the “Sausage with Stracchino and Roasted Shiitakes,” I chose the “Meatballs, Jalapenos, Tomato and Fontina,” sans fontina (blech, not a fan).  The manager was right; this pie was much better than anything I’ve had at Otto.  The crust was thicker, fluffier, and more pillowy; the crushed tomatoes and fresh mozzarella cheese was abundant, yet not overpowering; the sliced jalapeno added a surprisingly pleasant kick, and the homemade meatballs were velvety and full of flavor.  I had to make a concerted effort NOT to clean my plate.   

  What’s pricing like?

Here’s a snapshot of my bill:

• Figs with Ricotta Salata: $7 (then divided in half)
• Pizza with meatballs and jalapenos: $13

Will you return to Tarry Lodge?

If I’m in the vicinity (and by “vicinity” I mean 10-minutes, not one-hour, away), I would definitely return to Tarry Lodge; not only because it’s Port Chester’s best dining option, but also because I genuinely enjoyed my meal.  However, I do have two complaints:

• Freshly-baked focaccia bread: we received a plate topped with two slices of homemade focaccia accompanied by a dish filled with a fragrant olive oil and cured olives.  So what was the problem?  While other tables were getting bread-refills, our plates remained empty.  I know, I could have said something or asked for more, but in the name of genuinely wanting to be hungry for my entrée, I kept quiet.

• Dessert: when we were handed the dessert menus, I asked our server if the gelato that accompanied so many of the sweet selections was homemade.  I was shocked to learn that Tarry Lodge served Ciao Bella gelato instead of their own (like Otto and Babbo).  I don’t have a problem with CB, but I do think that it’s incredibly unfair of Batali not to share his outrageously delicious homemade gelato with the folks of Port Chester, NY. 

xx,
TLB

P.S. For menus and addresses: http://www.menupages.com/
P.S.S. Mass transit directions: http://www.hopstop.com/?city=newyork

Calling all of you restaurant owners or managers!

• Are you in the mood to piss off your customers?
• Looking for the perfect way to lose repeat business?
• Do you want to make your diners feel unworthy and invisible?

• Cuisine: Italian, Pizza (with an emphasis on organic and sustainable ingredients)
• Scene: Trendy, people watching, casual
• Occasion: Casual meal, 1x1/small to large group seating,
• Must try: Pizza, anything with homemade sausage
• Price: Brunch menu items, all under $19
• Reservations: Via phone or opentable.com
• Phone: (212) 966-1234
• Website: www.emporiony.com
• Location: 231 Mott St., (Btwn Spring & Prince)
• *Special note* Beer, wine and soju (rice wine) only

What’s the space like?

Rustic, warm and charming: Exposed brick walls and heating pipes, skylight-enclosed patio, menu specials written on framed chalkboards, and floor-to-ceiling windows that open on to Mott Street.

How was the service?

The service was unmemorable for the most part, except for this: “Can we add artichokes and sausage to the San Marzano (buffalo mozzarella, basil and tomatoes) pizza?” I asked. Just as the server’s eye brows rose in response to my question, so did his attitude. He advised that the restaurant DID NOT honor menu substitutions. “But why not,” I asked, “I know that your pies aren’t pre-made, so why can’t you throw on some additional toppings? We’re willing to pay extra. Plus, we’re the only party in the front dining room!” Um, what?

Did you drink?

Yes, I had a glass of the Guava Frizzante (prosecco + guava puree) that tasted like cheap watered-down brut without the slightest hint of guava.

How was the food?

Emporio’s brunch menu seemed much more lunch-driven, only containing four “breakfast-y” items. Here’s what Emily and I ordered to share:

• Grilled chicken and avocado salad: “Come on Em, chicken is so boring. Let’s get the grilled shrimp salad!” I said. Before I could defend my choice any longer, our waiter approached and gushed, “the chicken and avocado salad is my favorite…I highly recommend it.” And we did just that…Unfortunately. A hodge-podge of romaine, arugula and those yellowish dandelion/weed-looking leaves came lightly tossed in Caesar dressing (that tasted identical to the bottled crap you buy at the grocery store). I counted only two slices of avocado, and the grilled chicken was literally an unseasoned breast that must have been thrown on the grill five-minutes post order. The sliced breast meat was steaming hot and flavorless, reminding me how much I hate eating cool salad greens with warm chunks of protein.
• San Marzano pizza topped with artichoke hearts and homemade sausage: Well, as you can see, the server/kitchen agreed to add our two requested toppings on to the pie. Even still, I really didn’t know what to expect from the pizza, given how disappointed I was by the salad. To my pleasant surprise, it was extraordinarily delicious: Thin, yet not too crunchy, the matzo-colored crust was topped with crushed San Marzano tomatoes, fresh buffalo mozzarella, whole basil leaves, roasted and quartered artichoke hearts, and evenly-dispersed mounds of homemade Italian pork sausage. Cut in to four ample slices, Emily and I each devoured our respective halves.

What’s pricing like?

Emporio’s prices are pretty decent:

• Guava Frizzante: $8
• Grilled chicken & avocado salad: Not yet listed on menu
• San Marzano pizza topped with artichokes and sausage: $15

Will you return to Emporio?

Although it’s not destination-worthy, I would return to Emporio if I was in the neighborhood.

xo,
TLB